Your spy visits Mexico for a taste of Latin America on Sadler Gate in Derby
YOUR spy and companion had enjoyed a recent sunny day out on the outskirts of the city but, as the cooler evening drew in, we found ourselves wandering around the centre looking for a warm, welcoming place to eat.
In Sadler Gate we came across Mexico.
Simply named, its interior looked pleasant, colourful and inviting through its large front window panes and the thought of some equally warm, spicy, Latin American food seemed just as inviting.
The restaurant bills itself as a "friendly, traditional restaurant offering a range of Mexican and North American dishes" and the interior decor reflected this with its earthy colours and attractive Mexican memorabilia displayed around the walls.
The reception from the waitress behind the bar felt a little subdued in contrast to the venue.
But, as your spy and companion explored the glorious range of cocktails advertised and decided to have two non-alcoholic Mojitos, the waitress was happy to comply and we both enjoyed the beverages, made from scratch with their freshly-crushed mint and squeezed limes.
The venue has two floors – a spacious downstairs area for dining and an upper floor, offering a lounge area, described as "perfect for pre-meal aperitifs or post-meal relaxation".
Feeling quite ready to eat we decided to stick with choosing a table downstairs, in the window, and made our menu choices.
Secret Service felt in a decidedly savoury mood, fancying something fairly light and so ordered the Beef Chilli Bowl – served with Mexican rice, sour cream, corn chips and jalapenos.
My companion went for a vegetarian option and selected the Mushroom Burrito – filled with vegetables (mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, onions and peppers) cooked in light chilli spices.
We also chose three side dishes of refried beans, tortillas and guacamole.
Although it was still early and not yet very busy, the candlelit eating area with its bare brick walls, terracotta earthenware pots and wooden flooring and tables created a relaxed ambiance enhanced by a gentle buzz from other diners.
The food arrived relatively promptly and looked and smelt appetising. The dishes weren't huge but they were certainly adequate.
Everything was nicely cooked and presented.
They also tasted fine – not overly spicy but not bland either.
So, in a way, your spy feels a little churlish in making the complaint that neither dish felt like it delivered any huge surprises which set them apart from other Mexican food I have tasted.
The guacamole and refried beans tasted homemade and were certainly a clear cut above the mass produced supermarket versions but, for me, the main dishes just slightly lacked a wow factor.
Perhaps the clue is in the food description – Mexican and North American dishes – because certain aspects of the menu do seem to go for a bit of a catch-all policy.
The dessert menu, for example, seemed to contain quite a lot of North American and European style dishes.
Your spy can see the logic of 'playing it safe' in a climate where eateries are quite vulnerable to feeling the pinch at the moment.
The meals were both priced reasonably for a city centre location – and maybe we should have asked for more advice when choosing our dishes – but as Mexican food has grown massively popular in Britain in recent years, it seemed a shame not to have enjoyed a more deeply authentic Latin American food experience, which delivered a real punch.
However, it was still a tasty experience and Mexico has gone that extra mile in terms of the drinks on offer, even boasting its own Tequileria, which features an extensive range of world tequila's.
WHERE: 34-35 Sadler Gate, Derby. Call 01332 342090. Closed on Monday and Tuesday evenings.
THE MEAL: Beef Chilli Bowl – served with Mexican rice, sour cream, corn chips and jalapenos £10.95; Mushroom Burrito – mushrooms cooked in light chilli spices with sundried tomatoes, onions and peppers £12.95; side orders – refried beans £1.50, tortillas £1, guacamole £1; drinks – Two non-alcoholic Mojitos £6.60.
TOTAL: £34
