IF there are regular readers of this column – and I'm led to believe there are a few – then some of them may splutter into their pint at the idea that this week's column is about the Crewe and Harpur at Swarkestone.
It perhaps doesn't fit the typical real ale drinker's profile, being a large, food-led Marston's house. But then, perhaps there is no longer a "typical" real ale drinker, as the latest annual Cask Ale Report reveals that cask beer continues to be the fastest – arguably only – grower in the drinks market year on year.
My own experiences of the Crewe and Harpur have not always been positive, not least from when my daughter worked there some years ago. Old impressions stay with you, even though the people running it then have long moved on. Acquiring a bad reputation is quick and easy. Losing one is hard.
But, and it's a big but, the Crewe and Harpur is a lot different to the sort of edge-of-town modern food pubs Marston's is so fond of building and I think the brewery recognises this.
For a start, it has real history, as a converted 17th century coach house which still does accommodation. It's huge and sprawling. You keep turning corners and there are more and more tables. I'm struck by this with every visit and it means you can usually find a quiet spot.
And of course, as anyone who's been there in the summer will know, it is blessed with one of the biggest beer gardens anywhere.
All of this is fine but it wouldn't have had me rushing back just to drink Pedigree or the sadly emasculated Hobgoblin. I hadn't been in for more than two years.
However, a couple of weeks ago, I dropped in while out cycling. To my astonishment and delight, there was Jennings Mild on the bar. I do wish people wouldn't automatically turn their noses up at the word "mild" or at the fact it is only a beer of 3.1%.
Jennings Mild remains one of Britain's great drinks – dark, rich and chocolatey – and that has not diminished since the Lake District brewery became part of the Marston's empire.
There were five cask beers on the bar and, while the mild had gone, there were five the next time I popped in as well. And last week, another treat. A pump clip offering Rye Pale Ale, with the explanation that Marston's is experimenting with craft brews: look out for pump clips with the Revisionist range.
This is a marvellous beer, with a huge hoppy aroma bursting off the top of it, a little darker than perhaps I'd expected from something described as a pale ale but with loads of dry, citrusy flavour.
Chris Overall, who looks after the cellar at the pub (his wife Lynne Taylor is the manager), can't understand why more Marston's managers and tenants don't take advantage of the relatively wide range of specials and guest beers offered by the brewery.
"Perhaps they're scared that they won't last but modern cask beers have a longer shelf life than they used to," he says. "I like to keep them in the cellar a while before I put them on."
Around about now, one of the guest beers is going to be Oyster Stout, another superb beer that Marston's doesn't brew often enough. Catch it while you can.
Colin and Lynne have been at the Crewe and Harpur for two-and-a-half years. They have made it a better pub than I remember.
